Acidea.net Team
Amazing Arduino 3D printed LED Edge Clock
Today I’ll show you how to freely print and assemble your very own smart Arduino shelving system. There is a hidden ambient light sensor to dim the clock when the surroundings go dark and the recessed LED downlight errs. Allow you to show off some of your favorite things. The code also allows you to choose any color. You like, thanks to its RGB LEDs, you’ll need a few things to build. One of your own I’ve put links down below to where you can find these items on Amazon you’ll need a five-meter role of ws2812 B LEDs or neopixels an Arduino Nano.
I’m using this one from LG, a photosensitive resistor module a ds3231 real-time clock, some electrical hookup wire, ideally in three different colors, a couple of 470-ohm resistors, a couple of electronic terminal blocks. Each one wants to be 5 blocks long plenty of number-8 wood screws, a 5-volt power supply with screw terminals. In the end, if you’d rather not use mains power, then you can power this project using your Arduino Nanos, USB port, some thicker twin core power cable. If you will be using the 5-volt power supply and a wooden board at least a hundred 12 by 39 centimeters, the one which I will be using for my project is a hundred and thirty-eight by sixty centimeters. The first part to print is the core supports. You’Ll need thirty, one of these.
They provide the internal framework of the shelves to support them and also provide a structure to attach the LEDs to. I printed mine at a layer height, not point two millimeters in a variety of filaments, some PLA, and some ABS in all sorts of colors. As these parts won’t be seen, it’s a great opportunity to use up any remains of filament that you may have lying around. These will then be attached to bored using some wood screws. Now there are several ways attaching these to your backboard, with the correct spacing between them in the description below you’ll find a link to a freely printable template after you have fixed the first core support in place. This slides over the top and then shows you where to drill your next set of pilot holes. You can then repeat this as you go along the board, helping to keep your parts space style evenly. Alternatively, you can ask someone with access to a CNC machine to draw them for you. If you can do this, I have included the drawing to download in the description. This will explain to the CNC operator what holes you need drilling and where this is the route which I took as I used to work for a furniture manufacturer they should be set out so that the grid is six lengths. Long and two lengths high you’ll need to ensure, whilst you install the horizontal supports that this notch is facing towards the bottom of the clock. This is where we will be installing our own lighting LEDs later, the last vertical one in the top right corner is modified slightly so as to better accommodate the brains of this project. In our case, an Arduino nano, real-time clock, and photosensitive resistor using the support as a template door and mark where you can drill a hole for the mains power, cable, or USB power to come through later on. Once you have finished fitting the core supports onto the backboard. You’Ll need 23 of the LED mounting strips these. I have printed in white so to avoid any color cast and increase their reflectivity when the LEDs have been mounted on top of them once printed use.
Some adhesive to attach them to the following core supports. We don’t need to add them to all of the supports, only the ones which will be adding LEDs to later [ Music ]. This project has been made possible thanks to the continuing support of my Patreon supporters. That’S these people, I’d like to make a special mention to my newest Patreon supporter, far shed by Giri. I hope I’ve got your name right if you’d like to support my channel on my projects and please consider taking a look at my Patreon page you’ll find a description down below at this point will now start to add some LEDs to our project. You’Ll need to prepare 23 lengths, each with 9 LEDs. To do this, you can unravel them from the reel which they come on and use a standard pair of scissors to snip through their copper pads cut through the first set of copper pads to remove the plug. Continue to cut through the copper pad Center after every 9 LEDs once you have cut 23 lengths of these, we can’t in the pads at the end, to make connecting a wire to it easier. This just involves adding some solder to each of the copper pads. We can also prepare some lengths of wires. You should prepare them in sets of three one for the power data and ground connections on our LED strips you’re, going to need 20 sets, which are 22 centimeters long, two sets which are 37 centimeters long and one set, which is 50 centimeters long, [, Music. ]. Now that we have our LED strips and wires prepared, we can start to assemble them onto the front of our clock, face the order in which these are connected, as well as the orientation of these strips is very important. These little arrows going along the length of the strips represent the direction of the data flow pay good attention to this. As you assemble your clock, otherwise, you’ll have to go back and correct any mistakes later.
Our first LED strip will sit here above our electronics. You’Ll need to connect a set of 22 centimeters wise to both ends of it. First, we can then remove the adhesive. Add some glue and fit this in place onto the white LED mount the direction of data flow on this strip, we’ll be going in this direction. These wires are then routed carefully through the holes of the base of the shelf supports, ensure that when you’re routing the wires from the outside pieces of our clock choose the inside set of holes, this will help to keep our wires hidden. When the clock is complete, we can now solder another set of 22 centimeters of wires to the outgoing end of one of our strips of nine LEDs.
Again, the outgoing end is where the arrow is pointing towards once you’ve done this, we can end solder the incoming side to our wires that we added just now as before. We can then remove the adhesive. Add some glue and fit this in place onto the white LED mount thread. The wires from this led down through the wire hole and up into the next support turning 90 degrees to our left. Repeat this again, four times following the path around the clock, as shown here when you get to this LED strip, you’ll need to attach thirty-seven centimeters set of wires to the outgoing side. Now that I’ve shown you the first few connections here is a diagram that I’ve drawn out for you to follow. You can download a high-resolution copy by following the link in this video’s description. It will explain to you how to route the remaining cables correctly and which length of wire is required, where that’s the bulk of the LEDs installed. Let’S take a break from the electronics and get back to some more freely printing. Now it’s a great time to print the sleeves and test-fit them over the supports. There are five different variations that you’ll need to print for every sleeve. I printed the first couple of layers in white and then I changed to a wooden fused PLA, filament. The remainder of the print – this is what allows the LEDs to shine through and their color to be seen. Clearly, you’ll need to print nine of the sleeve-type ones. This has cutouts on just one side, six of sleeve-type two. This has cutouts on one side of the sleeve and a hole for the LED, downlighter ten of sleeve-type free. This one has cutouts on both sides. Six of the sleeve types for this have cut house on both sides, as well as a hole for the LED, downlight, ER, and one of sleeve-type five.
This leaf is specifically designed to hold our electronics and features holes for ventilation, as well as a whole for the photoresistor. Our sleeves can be fitted by carefully sliding them over the LEDs, ensuring that the wires pass through the cutouts as you fit them into place. The nine of sleeve-type one go in these locations, the six sleeve type twos all go along the top with the LED hole facing downwards. The 10 sleeve type freeze fits in these locations. The six sleeve type fours go along the middle row here and then this remaining sieve goes over where our electronics will be fitted next up here in the corner. Now, let’s connect our electronics with our Arduino for clarity, I’m going to use red wires for the positive connections and black ones for the ground ones. First, we solder to eight centimeters wise to SCL and SDA on our RTC, then 212-centimeter wires to VCC and ground. The wire we just sold it to SC l should be soldered to a five on the Arduino nano and they from SDA to a four next up is our photoresistor solder, a 10-centimeter wire to ao and a 14-centimeter length of wire to Both VCC and ground, the 10 centimeters, ao wire, is to be soldered to a zero on the Nano solder, a 12-centimeter wire to any of the Arduino z’ ground connections and another one to the 5-volt connection on the Arduino now solder, one of your 470-ohm resistors to the din cable connected to your first strip of LEDs.
The other end of this can be soldered to d6. On the Arduino. Just a quick word of warning. You shouldn’t connect the mains power supply at the same time, you’re using the USB connection. As you run the risk of damaging your equipment, that’s why we won’t be connecting the mains power supply until we are ready to finish the project now take one of the strips of terminal blocks and make 4 shorts jumper wires to join each block and fit them In place do the same with the other block, we can then connect the VCC connections and 5-volt connections to this block leave the center one unused for now, as this is where we will add our mains power supply later, do the same with the other block, But this time add in all of the ground connections together, connect your Arduino to your PC via USB and then download the code I’ve written for this project. There is a link to it in the description below you need to have two libraries installed for this project. The Adafruit neopixel library in the ds3231, simple library, to install the Adafruit library navigate to sketch, include library and then click on, manage libraries in this library manager, search for neopixel, select the neopixel entry and press install for the ds3231 library head to this address and follow The simple instructions on the page: we can first set the time on the clock by running a small script provided by the author of this library. We only have to run it once to do this head to file examples, ds3231, simple time and date and then choose set time and date set the current date and time in the script and upload this to your Arduino.
This will now set the correct time on your RTC, which will persist when the Arduino loses power for as long as this button battery lasts, this window can now be closed and the main project script uploaded in its place. If everything is gone to plan so far, and your clock should now be showing you the correct time, we can now install the LED downlight Asst for this. You want to prepare 11 sets of 29 centimeters long wires and one set, which is 48 centimeters long. You also need to cut 12 individual LEDs from your roll as before. Tinning both ends of your wire and the pads on your LEDs will make soldering them together a lot easier. We will need to put aside the sleeves from the top half and center of the shelving. Whilst we install these downlighters, our first LED will go in this top corner next to the control center of this project attach a 29 centimeter set of wires to both sides, and then glue into position. Don’t forget to make sure that the data flow of the arrows is pointing away from the Arduino. Also don’t forget to put the wires through the wire guides solder, a 470 ohms resistor to the din wire connected to this first LED, and then attach this to d5.
On the Arduino, the VCC and ground connections can then be added to the appropriate terminal box. As earlier there’s a link to a wiring diagram for this stage down in the description below daisy chain 5, more LEDs along the top edge using 29-centimeter lengths of wire between them keep reading the wise for the inside hoops at the bottom of the shelf. Support brackets at the six use the 48 centimeters wise to carry our data and power down through the end shelf and into the center row. You can then daisy chain the next six without our remaining wires, replace all the shell sleeves except the one which houses the Arduino.
We connect the USB cable and power up your Arduino. You should now have a fully working project. All that’s left to do now is to connect the mains power supply if you’re using it at the moment. This is running perfectly fine on USB power fix all of the electronics in place in the shelf support here at the end and then hang it onto our wall thread the wire which you’ll be using for the power supply through the back of the board and connect The positive lead to our positive terminal block and their negative to our ground terminal block check that all of your wires are firmly held in by the screws. The photoresistor will be glued into place here to help line up with the whole place.
The sleeve, alongside the photoresistor, as you glue it, the remaining components can now be fitted anywhere inside the support that works well. For you, this is how I have arranged mine. You can now slide the sleeve over this support. This is where the photoresistor can get a glimpse of the ambient light levels in your room. The other end of your power supply cable can now be fitted onto the screw terminals. Again make sure that these are screwed down nice and tight. We don’t want anything to come loose to hang mine on the wall. I used some kitchen cabinet hanging brackets, I fitted one half to the wall and the other to the rear of the project. These two then slide together. I’ve also used some strong glue to help secure the power cable to prevent anything pulling on it and loosening the wires in the two bottom corners. I’ve glued together with a small stack of rubber bands to act as a staff standoff. I then added the clock onto the wall: mount and use the cable tie D to hide the mains power supply, and that’s it for this project. Let me know what you think about it in the comments below if you’ve enjoyed it. Why not like the video and subscribe, so you can find out when we release our next project? If you know anybody else who might be interested in building one of their own goes ahead and share the video with them, otherwise, until next time ciao for now
Do you Like LED Project maybe do you like this LED Project to?
